Thursday, 10 September 2009

Chicago's Pump Room Restaurant Jumping Once Again

By Ross Everett

Long a hangout of A-list celebrities, the Pump Room Restaurant in Chicago is still 'hopping' in the 21st century. The restaurant, memorialized in Frank Sinatra's classic "Chicago", was one of the first high level restaurants to open in Chicago after the Prohibition era. The eatery has seen countless celebrities including Marilyn Monroe, Clark Gable, Ronald Reagan, John Barrymore and countless others. For a while, it's luster faded somewhat as the dining scene in Chicago led by Charlie Trotter passed it by.

The Pump Room opened in 1938 under the ownership and management of Ernie Blyfield. Blyfield's inspiration for the name and ambiance of his restaurant was an 18th Century London pub frequented by celebrities and nobility, including Queen Anne. The 'Pump Room' moniker came from the hot drinks 'pumped' into the cocktails of its customers.

Blyfied's Chicago Pump Room took off immediately, and its most sought after table--'Booth 1' may have been the most desired spot of any dining establishment in the country for a time. Booth 1 was occupied by Sinatra and cronies like Jilly Rizzo, Judy Garland and daughter Liza Minnelli, Clark Gable, John Barrymore as well as Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall.

Blyfield died in 1950, but the Pump Room continued to be the preferred Chicago destination for the biggest names in show biz. A new era of celebrities held court there including opera singer Beverly Sills, Paul Newman, Robert Redford, film producer Robert Evans, Eddie Murphy and others. A funny story involving the Pump Room began when the former drummer for a British progressive rock band was refused entry due to his lack of a jacket. The drummer would use this as inspiration for his next album--'No Jacket Required' which has sold over 14 million copies worldwide and established Phil Collins as a solo superstar. After the album's release, the Pump Room sent Collins an apology--and an appropriate jacket for him to wear on his next trip to town.

The Pump Room experienced a revitalization in the late 1990's when it was purchased by a large restaurant management group. They spent a lot of money to renovate the facility, overhaul the menu and hire a top flight staff. While the Pump Room's golden era trade mark flaming food served on a sword was a tragedy of city fire codes, the menu is now on par with any in the city serving a sophisticated interpretation of classic American cuisine. In addition to the revamped cuisine, the Pump Room upgraded its wine offering and expanded the bar area.

The Pump Rooms stature has been maintained by current executive chef Nick Sutton. The star of the place, however, is still the almost palpable sense of history that the dining room offers. Considering that the giants of civilized culture"from Bogey all the way to the Chairman himself"have held court in that room, it is a pretty intoxicating aura. Fortunately, the Pump Room is once again worthy of such legends, and its renaissance is a victory for culinary civility in a world too often overwhelmed with Olive Gardens and Red Lobsters.

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